me2016

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  • in reply to: Assembly issue with kit #107 #2078
    me2016
    Keymaster

    I was once hunting a short and managed to find it with help of my dvm. I did measure the resistance and just kept moving around hunting the lowest resistance calue. It may only be numbers like 0.8 vs 0.6 but that is good enough to give a hint
    I hane not has any reports of doa chip so you would be dirat then. The chip may be broken if to much heat been applied to it for to long but you have to do it a lot to break it that way so I’m guessing that’s not the case. Another thing is if you happen to get some solder on the address jumpers and with that changed the address but that’s probably even more remote.
    You can try using the 4pin connector that goes to the plug board as a direct i2c connection.
    Also, does the plug board work? Not sure if it will show up if the main chip isn’t detected but if it does…

    in reply to: Assembly issue with kit #107 #2077
    me2016
    Keymaster

    I was once hunting a short and managed to find it with help of my dvm. I did measure the resistance and just kept moving around hunting the lowest resistance calue. It may only be numbers like 0.8 vs 0.6 but that is good enough to give a hint
    I hane not has any reports of doa chip so you would be dirat then. The chip may be broken if to much heat been applied to it for to long but you have to do it a lot to break it that way so I’m guessing that’s not the case. Another thing is if you happen to get some solder on the address jumpers and with that changed the address but that’s probably even more remote.
    You can try using the 4pin connector that goes to the plug board as a direct i2c connection.
    Also, does the plug board work? Not sure if it will show up if the main chip isn’t detected but if it does…

    in reply to: Assembly issue with kit #107 #2074
    me2016
    Keymaster

    I havent heard anyone else having this problem.
    The first you can do is to just make sure it’s power on the chip. Next (with power removed) ring up the connection between the chip and the connector, starting with the 4 i2c wires. Just use a dvm/multimeter and put one pintip on the contact and the other just on top of the pin on the chip. Also make sure it’s no microscopic connection between the pins.
    If that is ok measure from contact on l&k board to arduino.

    in reply to: Assembly issue with kit #107 #2055
    me2016
    Keymaster

    Hi Jane and thanks for your post.

    Power connector, Depending on the cable it might be lot of space in the hole. What I done is fold it double and then put a solder blob on it. Then it can be screwed in a bit better.

    The rotor. It might require some adjustments to get it somewhat clear. I see that you have not yet added the support for the board, with that in place it is a little easier to adjust the rotor angle to not touch on the sides.

    /ps

    in reply to: Kit #55 working #933
    me2016
    Keymaster

    Don’t remember what changes that where done exactly for v1.08 (and I’m not checking) but one thing that was recently done was to change order of things a little so a standalone arduino works a little better. Don’t know how that would have impacted you but apparently it did.

    Yes, R119/120 are on the lines and that is possible why it’s no connection. You need to measure from sound module to R119/120, then from other side of resistor to arduino D8/D9.
    Start with resoldering the resistors, then move on to measure it.

    in reply to: Kit #55 working #930
    me2016
    Keymaster

    Very slow, no sound, fast after disabling sound. That all points to problem with the sound board, it sends the command to play the sound but never get the “done” signal so it time out.

    Did it ever work ?
    Check connections around the sound board, make sure the BUSY connection is ok (see schematic).
    Make sure the microsd card is properly installed.
    If you remove the sound module it will probably run fast directly and the serial will say something about no sound board.

    in reply to: Kit #55 working #907
    me2016
    Keymaster
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    in reply to: Kit #55 working #898
    me2016
    Keymaster
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    in reply to: Need a little help troubleshooting… #894
    me2016
    Keymaster

    Did you get it to work ?

    in reply to: Need a little help troubleshooting… #893
    me2016
    Keymaster

    Looking at the schematic I see that the common thing between “L” and “O” is Row11 which comes from pin14 (one corner) on ht16k33. Row11 is also used for segment “E” on the alnum digits and that segment is the bottom right.
    Since both the main and l&k board has issues the first action is to just put a solder iron on pin14 on the ht16k33 chip. I would guess that it’s not soldered properly since looking at the traces they go out from that point in different directions, one to the jumper cable and one to the LEDs on the board.

    in reply to: Kit #55 not yet working #887
    me2016
    Keymaster

    Please report what issues you found. It can be of help to anyone else who run in to similar issues.

    in reply to: Kit #55 working #886
    me2016
    Keymaster

    Good you got it to work, and during this I guess you learned a lot about how things work – both electronics and software wise.

    I’m curious as to the stall issue so please report back what that is all about.

    in reply to: Kit #55 not yet working #873
    me2016
    Keymaster

    So, lets go through the problems one by one;

    – L103 display is not working
    That means that Common on pin 18 on the digit does not have a connection to COM6/pin 8 on ht18k33. The path includes pin 24 on the jumper cable.

    – Displays do not show all segments
    Pretty much the same as above, just a different trace that’s broken. Identify the segment missing and look at the schematic as to what pin it is on. Then follow that pin all the way through the jumpercable to ht16k33.

    – Plugboard seems not connected
    You state above that p201-p203 fails regarding 5V and GND, that is why it’s not working. You need to fix that connection, see schematic for pins to connect.

    – When turning to reflector mode system seems to get into a loop
    Hard to guess, possible because of a short somewhere in the rotor but why only in reflector mode? The logic is pretty much the same for all the different modes.
    Fix the other things first, then see if it’s still a problem and of so provide some more details.

    – Slow response in run mode
    How slow is “slow”? if maybe 5sec then it could be a problem with the sound board. Do you have sound? It is possible that it thinks you have a sound board and wait for the sound to finish before moving on.

    in reply to: Kit #55 not yet working #845
    me2016
    Keymaster

    Every PCB is tested during manufacturing to have the correct connections so that should be way low on the suspect list. The most common issue I seen is bad soldering to the level that the solder holes and/or traces are broken. Had to add some extra wires due to that on a board I fixed up earlier. Don’t forget to verify the soldering of pins on the arduino it self (been there, did just solder in the corners and things didn’t work to good until I soldered in the rest).

    It’s a dual layer board so all traces are on the top or the bottom, nothing in the middle of the board. You have the schematics of where all connections should be or not. With that you can verify connections and add extra wires as needed.
    For example, as a test you could solder two wires directly from the arduino to the pins on the ht16k33 chip and see if you get some life signs from it that way.

    in reply to: Kit #55 not yet working #805
    me2016
    Keymaster

    No one else in Netherlands that ordered a meinEnigma but that is probably not needed. Try to look up some close by electronics club and when they have meetings. I’m involved in some here in town and it does sometimes show up people with some electronic issue that they can’t solve because they don’t know any electronics.

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